Complete Antique Jewelry Identification Guide

The allure of ancient charm and timeless elegance often draws us towards antique jewelry. But how does one differentiate a genuine artifact from counterfeit vintage costume jewelry? At East Towne Jewelers in Mequon, we’ve seen it all. Before you take your precious heirlooms to the nearest antique shop, let us walk you through a little jewelry history and how you can begin to identify vintage jewelry. When you know what you have, you are then in a position to decide on your best options for the pieces. As you will see below, there are lots of second-life possibilities.

Antique jewelry carries a rich history, each uniquely showcasing a period style, design attributes, and specific materials. The initial step in identifying these vintage gems revolves around classifying the function of the jewelry and checking for any alterations.

What is vintage jewelry?

You may hear the terms “estate jewelry,” “heirloom jewelry,” “vintage jewelry,” and “antique jewelry” all thrown around interchangeably. However, there are subtle differences between the terms.

Estate Jewelry – The Timeless Inheritance

Estate jewelry may not be as old as antique or as quaint as vintage, but it carries a charm all its own. Estate jewelry is any piece previously owned, no matter its age. It encapsulates a myriad of styles, reflecting the trends of the time when it was created. A piece of estate jewelry might be antique or vintage. It’s the best of all worlds, honoring history and artistry while retaining its own unique charm.

Antique Jewelry – A Century of Elegance

Antique jewelry is a precious memento from a bygone era, any piece that’s managed to survive for over a hundred years. It’s not just jewelry; it’s a piece of history, a testament to the extraordinary craftsmanship and changing aesthetics of times gone by.

Each era brought distinctive styles; Georgian jewelry celebrated nature with gems and precious stones, while the Victorian era spanned from nature-inspired designs to dark, less colorful pieces. The Arts and Crafts era rebelled against machine-made pieces, while Art Nouveau and Edwardian jewelry exuded extravagance and opulence. Antique jewelry is the epitome of rarity and preciousness, each piece a historical treasure.

Vintage Jewelry – A Blast from the Past

When we talk about ‘vintage,’ we usually refer to items crafted between 50 and 100 years ago. Certain aspects of craftsmanship can hint at whether jewelry is genuinely vintage. It is a delightful fusion of past and present, combining the unique aesthetics of previous eras with a flair that appeals to contemporary sensibilities. From flamboyant Hollywood-inspired pieces from the Retro Modern era to Jackie Kennedy-inspired sophistication and the bold gold of the 80s, vintage jewelry showcases diverse styles and aesthetics.

The charm of vintage jewelry lies in the possibility of transformation – a quality piece may become an antique while still in your collection! For instance, the type of clasps, chains, patina, and so forth can assist a buyer or collector in determining the monetary value and historic period of their vintage piece.

Eras of Vintage Jewelry

Each era, from Georgian to Victorian to Art Deco, imbues a distinct style into its jewelry pieces. Understanding these style variations can pinpoint the time period of the jewelry’s creation. Moreover, the type of jewelry, its design features, gemstones used, and manufacturing techniques may all hint at its historical roots.

Vintage jewelry pieces come from various notable periods including Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and Mid-Century. Each of these periods have distinct characteristics that differentiate them, for example, the Art Nouveau period is known for its jewelry with bright-colored semi-precious gemstones, organic motifs, and porcelain enamel highlights.

The Georgian Era

The Georgian era, named after the four Georges reigning British monarchs from 1714 to 1837, was marked by ubiquitous changes, including groundbreaking advancements in politics, arts, science, and societal norms across the globe. These transformations created the perfect backdrop for creating unique and luxurious Georgian jewelry. It was in this era that jewelry became more accessible to individuals beyond the aristocracy, notably the burgeoning middle class.

Georgian jewelry was known for its opulence and craftsmanship, with designs and trends shared internationally. This period also saw the emergence of Louis styles, named after the French Kings Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. By the dawn of the 19th century, the Empire style of Napoleon Bonaparte had also emerged.

Key Features of Georgian Jewelry:

• Georgian-era goldsmiths were highly skilled technicians, with gold alloys of 18 karat and higher used to create handcrafted jewelry pieces.
• The Georgian period also saw the advent of the rolling mill, which facilitated the production of uniform sheets of silver and gold.
• Jewelry styles began to be classified according to the time of day they were worn, with different accessories popular for daytime and evening wear.
• Georgian-era jewelry was marked by the use of various precious materials, such as diamonds, garnets, emeralds, rubies, coral, amber, ivory, pearls, turquoise, agates, and carnelian.
• Imitation materials, such as paste, faux pearls, opaline glass, Vauxhall glass, tassies, and Wedgwood’s Jasperware beads and cameos, were also used, reflecting the whims and preferences of the era.

Jewelry Of The Victorian Era

In the heyday of Queen Victoria’s reign, a revolution in aesthetics was underway that translated directly to the world of jewelry. The Victorian Era (1837-1901) marked a period of significant changes in society and industry and heralded a new age of creativity and craftsmanship in jewelry design. The jewelry styles of this era were highly diverse, stretching across almost seven decades. Victorian jewelry was often a celebration of new love or a token of deep affection, featuring intricate detailing made possible by growing industry and the advent of mass production.

Key Features of Victorian Jewelry:

• Gold, particularly 18k, was frequently employed, with gemstones set in claw-like prongs or encircling metal collet settings.
• Victorian Romantic jewelry featured a variety of motifs, from hearts and hands to anchors and arrows. The love knot, a symbol of an unbreakable bond and eternal love, was another much-admired design of the time.
• The period witnessed a renewed interest in Gothic and Medieval themes alongside a fascination with Ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian designs.
• France’s presence in Algeria brought Moorish motifs into the mix, while Queen Victoria’s purchase of her Balmoral estate in Scotland ushered Scottish designs into fashion.
• Serpents, seen as symbols of eternal love, too gained widespread popularity during this era.
• The Romantic Period celebrated various gem materials, including garnet, emerald, topaz, and turquoise. Coral, believed to ward off evil, and ivory, lava stone, and tortoiseshell were also favored materials for jewelry creation.
• Acrostic jewelry, where the first letter of each gemstone spelled out an affectionate word, was a true reflection of the period’s sentimentality. Cameos, hand-carved scenes or portraits, found renewed popularity and were often brought back as souvenirs from Italy.
• Chatelaines, decorative belts holding tools or accessories, were fashionable and practical. Slide chains, large brooches, girandoles, and even early photographic daguerreotypes were hot items of the time.
• Hair jewelry, an enduring symbol of Victorian sentimentality, were talismans of affection featuring a loved one’s locks.

Edwardian-Era Jewelry

As the world stepped into the 20th century, the opulence of the Edwardian era, bestowed upon us an invaluable heritage in the form of Edwardian jewelry. This was a time when King Edward VII’s love for everything lavish permeated through the wealthy aristocratic circles and impacted the fashion of jewelry significantly.

The icon of this epoch, Cartier, played a crucial role in setting the pace of the era’s stylish trends. The brand, appointed the official jeweler to the king, introduced innovative and fashion-forward concepts to the jewelry world.

Key Features of Edwardian Jewelry:

• Cartier’s use of platinum in Edwardian jewelry sparked the ‘white on white’ trend, which continued to captivate fashionistas until the onset of World War I.
• Edwardian jewelry was synonymous with precision craftsmanship. The period witnessed extensive use of enduring and exquisite materials like platinum and diamonds.
• The designs were delicate, intricate, and inspired by motifs from the 18th century, such as bows, garlands, ribbons, and lace.
• Platinum, being robust yet versatile, was extensively used to create lighter, detailed jewelry designs encrusted with diamonds. Diamonds’ wide availability and affordability were like a cherry on top.
• Pearls were considered the ultimate status symbol, being more valuable than diamonds, and were integrated into exquisite jewelry designs.
• Edwardian style was marked by its light, ethereal styles with ‘invisible settings’ where diamonds appeared to float and lace-like filigree settings. Another decorative technique called ‘millegrain’ was introduced, giving jewelry a softer, lighter look.
• The glamorous events at the Buckingham Palace inspired the styles of the era. Sparkling diamond and pearl filigree tiaras, pearl ‘chains’, sautoirs, and the unique double-pendant lavalier necklace made by Cartier were in vogue.
• Bracelets and rings were light, adorned with swirling motifs, flowery designs, diamonds, and pearls. Earrings in elaborate designs and shapes added the perfect finishing touch to the ensemble.

Art Deco Jewelry

In the elegant world of jewelry, one style that stands out for its bold statements and architectural designs is Art Deco. This style has captured our imaginations for almost a century. Defined by geometric patterns and intricate designs, Art Deco jewelry represents a unique mix of fashion sensibilities. The Art Deco period saw the incorporation of distinct motifs from Ancient Egypt, invoking a sense of mysticism and rich antiquity. This cultural blending resulted in jewelry pieces used as artwork that told vivid stories.

Key Features of the Art Deco Period:

• Art Deco jewelry’s finesse is partly attributed to the widespread use of white metals like platinum, allowing for the creation of delicate and detailed designs.
• This era’s jewelry pieces were flamboyant, stylish, and daring from bejeweled cigarette cases to elegant brooches and ornate barrettes.
• The use of large gemstone rings, which projected an aura of opulence and extravagance, is at the heart of Art Deco jewelry’s magnetism.
• These pieces would often feature bold color combinations, further amplifying their aesthetic appeal. Diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, and enameling were commonly used materials, each contributing to the style’s unforgettable allure.
• Interestingly, the Art Deco era also saw the rise of costume jewelry, designed to be fun, affordable, and complement ever-changing fashion trends. This period marked a shift in perception, where jewelry was not limited to the affluent but presented as an expressive art form for everyone.
• A melting pot of influences, Art Deco jewelry also drew inspiration from Art Nouveau and Edwardian styles, resulting in a hybrid design language that was at once modern and vintage.
• One cannot overlook the prevalent use of flame-fusion synthetic corundum, which gave the pieces a distinctive Art Deco touch.

Art Nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau jewelry, a fleeting yet unforgettable period in the history of adornment, combined nature, female energy, and handcrafting techniques in an unprecedented way, challenging the societal and artistic norms of the time. Forged in an era before World War I and the rise of mass manufacturing, Art Nouveau jewelry—the epitome of French innovation and design—was radiantly unique and mesmerizing.

However, the genre was short-lived, spanning only about 15 years, as the onset of World War I and its extravagant style led to a decline in its appeal. Unlike prior periods of jewelry design dominated by gleaming gemstones, Art Nouveau placed emphasis on design rather than materials.

Key Features of Art Nouveau Jewelry:

• The primary elements of this extraordinary jewelry were intricate enamelwork, incorporating techniques like applique-à-jour, horns from domestic animals shaped into wondrous designs, and carved ivory.
• Diamonds were used sparingly, mostly as accent stones.
• A notable feature of Art Nouveau jewelry was its centricity around women. Designs depicted euphonious, unthreatening female figures, often combined with nature. From vivacious mermaids and fairies to intimidating figures like Medusa, the jewelry embodied the dual perceptions of French women at the time.
• Art Nouveau pieces featured nature in an unprecedentedly sensual way. Coupled with the “in-your-face” large pieces, Art Nouveau jewelry was a spectacle meant for a select fraction of society—wealthy, bohemian types, and renowned entertainers.

How to Value Vintage Jewelry

Venture into any antique or jewelry shop, and you will find a treasure trove of vintage rings, necklaces, and bracelets, many with no clear origin story. If you’ve got some curious pieces on your hands, you may be wondering how to determine vintage jewelry’s value. Indeed, determining the worth of vintage jewelry hinges on many factors, including its age, unique design, the inclusion of semi-precious and precious gemstones/metals, and its alignment with current fashion trends.

Several factors, such as materials, craftsmanship, and overall condition, determine the exact value of each piece. Vintage jewelry has certain characteristic qualities that the discerning eye can recognize. The materials used, gemstones incorporated, the construction methodology, clasps, patina, and overall style are some notable features, while provenance can be a fascinating insight into its past ownership.

Might you have inherited a fortune in jewelry?

Unearthed a stash of vintage bling from your grandma’s collection or picked up a piece from an antique shop? Either way, what you own might be a treasure trove worth a fortune! You probably wonder, does my jewelry hold any real value?

Here are a few tips to get you started:

1. Initial Cleaning: Begin by cleaning your jewelry to remove dirt or tarnish. Use a soft toothbrush and warm soapy water. Refrain from using household cleaning agents, as they could compromise the metal or stones, thereby affecting the value of your piece. If you feel more comfortable, East Towne Jewelers is happy to clean, and if needed repair any damaged pieces.
2. The Stamp Hunt: Stamps are snitches that tell tales about the piece’s metal content, manufacturer, or designer. They can give you a clear idea about the potential worth of the item. Again, as your expert jewelers, East Towne Jewelers is happy to examine your pieces and give you insight as to their origin and content.
3. Gold Testing: It can be tricky to distinguish solid gold from gold plating, and it’s essential as the value difference is substantial. Gold should not be magnetic and should sink in water. However, only an experienced jeweler can give you a solid answer.
4. Stones and Settings: Evaluate how the stone is set on the piece. If it appears glued, you likely have costume jewelry. However, if the prongs are intricately designed or handcrafted, the gem could be of value.
5. The Sparkle Test: Use the sparkle test to avoid falling for a cubic zirconia replica of a diamond. A genuine diamond reflects white light beautifully, giving off outstanding sparkle, and it also reflects colored light in a dazzling way.
6. Age Matters: In the jewelry world, generally the older your piece, the higher its value. Antique pieces, especially from the Edwardian era, are rare and thus, valuable. Modern pieces, too, can hold great value based on various factors such as size, cut, and the maker.
7. The Brand Trivia: If you can relate your piece to a particular brand, you may hit the jackpot. Branded items are designed uniquely and hence, carry significant value. Use reverse image search to find similar items and their selling prices.
8. Condition Check: The condition of your piece plays a significant role in determining its retail value. Any damages or required restorations can devalue it. East Towne Jewelers are experts in repairing damaged vintage or heirloom jewelry.
9. Metal Weight Price: If your jewelry is made from precious metal, calculate the metal weight price. You can cross-reference this with the current market rate for a similar weight or style.

Jewelry Hallmarks

An insightful way to gather valuable information about an antique jewel is through its hallmarks, maker’s marks, or other markings. Hallmarks can unveil many details about the jewelry piece, including the metal’s purity, country of origin, timeframe of manufacture, weight, and assay office. These include markings like 10K (10 karat gold) or STER (sterling silver).

Maker’s marks, on the other hand, identify the item’s manufacturer, designer, or retailer, providing a direct link to its creation history. Date letters, a common practice in many countries, aid in determining when the item was officially stamped at the assay office.

A range of marks often found on vintage jewelry include hallmarks, maker’s marks, trademarks, date marks, designer signatures, copyright marks, quality marks for gemstones, country of origin marks, assay office marks, and patent numbers.

Metal Oxidation and Patina

Like humans, metals show their age. In the case of jewelry, this aging is often in the form of dark spots or a green and/or brown film on their surfaces, known as ‘patina.’ This is essentially an oxidization process that occurs over a long time. Examining these signs can give a hint to the age of the piece.

Does Gold Age?

The allure of gold has endured through centuries, its gleaming charm possessing a timeless beauty that never fades. Gold, the noblest of all metals, holds a unique spot in the metallurgical world due to its highly unreactive nature—it does not rust or tarnish. So, why do we sometimes notice a dull patina or red spots on gold jewelry?

Pure gold, though beautiful and rust-resistant, is incredibly soft and malleable. In practical applications, such as manufacturing jewelry, pure gold lacks the required strength and durability. To overcome this, manufacturers alloy pure gold with harder metals, creating a more robust end product, but one that may be susceptible to rust or tarnishing.

When it comes to spotting red on gold, it’s not the gold that’s rusting. The purity of gold is the key. Gold alloyed with noble metals such as platinum or palladium is more resistant to rust and tarnish. However, base metals like copper, used for alloying, could make gold more susceptible to tarnishing. As a rule of thumb, the higher the karat or the purity of gold, the less likely it is to tarnish, but the softer and more impractical it becomes for everyday use.

If your gold jewelry loses its shine due to tarnishing, a simple wash in warm water and gentle soap, followed by a gentle rub with a soft cloth, can restore it to its original brilliance. Your best bet, however, is to bring your gold to East Towne Jewelers for professional cleaning to ensure your precious pieces get their luster back without the risk of damage.

Understanding Oxidized Silver

Oxidized silver refers to sterling silver undergoing a chemical process that accelerates natural tarnishing. This process results in an antique finish that graces the surface of silver and copper-containing alloys. This treatment is popular for its distinctive appearance that replicates the charm of historical relics or creates contrasting tones for theme-based jewelry.

The copper composition allows silver to develop a rich, dark patina, setting it apart from fine silver. Moreover, the oxidized silver finish can adopt different hues like blue, red, green, brown, or golden in controlled environments, creating a range of color variations that add to its appeal.

Silver Patination

Silver Patination is a delicate chemistry-meets-craftsmanship process involving the exposure of a sterling silver alloy containing minute copper percentages to elements like oxygen and sulfur. This exposure results in a natural reaction, darkening the metal surface and developing a patina. Jewelers accelerate this process using liver sulfur, allowing a controlled patina development ranging from a subtle gold or brown to a deep gray or black.

While silver doesn’t rust like some metals, exposure to water can accelerate tarnishing and darken the piece’s patina. Consequently, it’s advisable to avoid exposing oxidized sterling silver to water or abrasive substances that could damage the protective coating or force the color to change.

Oxidized sterling silver is hailed for its unique allure and depth, accentuating the intricate details and textures in jewelry pieces. The dark patina hues contrast magnificently against bright silver, drawing attention to every curve and contour of the piece. This depth and contrast is a feat nearly impossible to replicate with other metals or coatings.

How to Date Jewelry by its Clasp

Various clasp styles were prevalent during different periods. These include the Hook Clasp, commonly used for multi-stringed necklaces in the 1950s and 1960s, and the Barrel Clasp, a vintage fastener that connects to the ends of necklaces or bracelets. The Fishhook Clasp (a decorative variation of the Box Clasp) was popular in the early 20th Century, while the Lobster Claw Clasp gained popularity in the 1970s and is still widely used today.

Historic Chain Styles

Several chain styles from particular eras can help determine the timeframe a piece of jewelry belongs to. For instance, chains involving non-metal materials such as Bakelite were fashionable during the early and mid-20th Century, while brick-style chains gained popularity in the 1940s.

Historically, one of the earliest chain-making techniques employed was the ‘loop in loop’ method. Using this technique, artisans avoided soldering links while connected, allowing for the creation of chains even in ancient times. Starting with gold wire coiled around a dowel, individual wire loops were created which could be independently soldered to form rings. The result was an enchanting series of closed loops, which were linked together to form a mesmerizing chain.

The Georgian period was also recognized for its creativity and diversity in chain design. Various techniques were used to create timeless long chains in myriad shapes, featuring patterned links and draped symmetry.

Innovation didn’t stop there. With time, the loop-in-loop technique was refined and expanded, creating more intricate chain designs. Around the eighth century BC, ‘strap chains’ made their debut. These chains formed a unique flat band design, comprising multiple chains affixed alongside each other. This evolution in chain-making was followed by the emergence of chain mail in the 2nd century BC: a textile-like structure made of interconnected loops, often used with plates to create various decorative designs.

The chain-making process witnessed a significant transformation with the Industrial Revolution. The period saw the advent of chain-making machines, which expanded the scope of chain designs, leading to the creation of complex and unique patterns like the snake chain.

Determining the Value of Vintage Jewelry

The allure of owning a piece of history, a token from another era is simply enchanting. However, ascertaining the actual value of antique jewelry can be perplexing, particularly for first-time buyers.

1. Start from a Reliable Source. First, if the piece wasn’t a family heirloom, acquire your antique jewelry from trustworthy sources. They have an eye for detail and provide an initial quality evaluation so you don’t have to do all the preparatory work. You might also have the pieces inspected by a reliable source like East Towne Jewelers.
2. Trust Your Instincts. Not everyone has the advantage of handling and studying jewelry for years, but if you’ve been collecting for a while, you might develop a reliable instinct. Your first impression and tactile ‘feel’ of the piece can reveal a lot about its value.
3. Assess the Condition. Checking the general condition of the jewelry is crucial. Inspect every part from the shank or the ‘band’ of a ring, to the underside of the setting, to the stones. Identifying any physical damage is paramount as it can significantly affect the piece’s value.
4. Quality of the Stones. Although antique gemstones are evaluated distinctively from modern ones, the color, clarity, cut, and carat of the stone remain essential to the value of the jewelry. A loupe, a small magnifying glass used by jewelers, can help you spot any flaws and assess the quality of the stones.
5. Hold the Design to Account. The design of a piece of antique jewelry directly impacts its value. Unique or uncommon designs typically have higher values due to their rarity. Like any piece of art, the desirability of a jewelry piece can elevate its value.
6. Consider the Historical Context. While age does not necessarily define the value, the historical context does give it a perspective. For instance, Edwardian and Art Deco jewelry are highly prized for their distinctive quality and elegance.
7. Look for Hallmarks. Hallmarks, imprints that denote the type and quality of metal, can provide valuable clues about the jewelry’s composition. They can help you understand the purity of the gold and its corresponding softness or vulnerability.
8. Understand the Significance of the Designer. Jewelry pieces from renowned brands or designers, like Cartier or Tiffany, are more valuable due to their prestigious reputation. Additionally, if a designer is deceased, their pieces become part of a limited collection, significantly increasing their worth.
9. Learn About its Story. Lastly, the story that accompanies a piece of antique jewelry can add value to it. A remarkable backstory or famous previous owner can elevate an already valuable antique to a priceless artifact.

Have A Blast With Your Jewelry’s Past With East Towne Jewelers!

We hope you’re as fascinated by jewelry’s rich history as we are at East Towne Jewelers. If you have some mysterious heirloom pieces haunting your jewelry box or if you’re on the hunt for one-of-a-kind marvels, we’d love to explore with you. Our world-class jewelers will clean, restore, or even repurpose your pieces to give them new life while preserving their fascinating stories. Stop into our Mequon location to keep your jewelry’s legacy alive!